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Brownell’s 30-round magazines in stock….

Hey all - 

Wanted to pass on to those of you who are looking to pick up some magazines for your AR-platform firearm. Brownell’s has several versions of their reputable AR/M4 magazines in stock and for very good prices.

b-mags

Their 30 round aluminum magazines is currently available for only $13.99. It does not appear there is any limit.

I have several of these and they have worked great for me. For more information click HERE.

Now….if I could just find some .22LR!

Rourke

Technical difficulties…….

All -

I am having some continual problems with the site. Hopefully within a few hours it will be fixed – if not, within a few days.

Fun, fun and more fun……….

Rourke

 

Guest Post: Mead – Berserker Beer

Mead is almost certainly the first beverage that got humans tipsy (sorry, beer).  It predates wine by at least 10,000 (and possibly as much as 30,000) years.   It probably predates the cultivation of soil.  Is an alcoholic beverage required in a SHTF scenario, no; but, it will certainly make those close quarters with the in-laws and cat stew dinners much less irritating.

 

Mead consists of just three simple ingredients: honey, water, and yeast.   One can add fruit, spices, or hops to add flavors, but it’s certainly not necessary.  Personally, I prefer my honey nectar in its purist form.

 

For those who have read my previous missives you know I love history.  So, I begin with a bit of a lesson.  In all likelihood man did not even cook up the first batch of mead – he found it.  Often a colony of bees would make their nest in a hollow in a tree.  Yeast spores naturally float around on gentle breezes and more often than not are wafted into cavities wherein a bunch of happy, industrious bees slaves away creating the ideal home for their future generations.  This home is often filled with the wonder food of the natural world – honey.  Raw honey naturally inhibits the growth of bacteria, viruses, mold, and yeasts.  However, when the warm, rainy season arrived and the honey was sufficiently diluted the available yeast multiplied rapidly doing what they do best: turn sugar into alcohol.

 

Gork, the caveman was out hunter-gathering one day and noticed a swarm of bees.  “Yummy”, he thought to himself, “where there’s bees, there’s usually some tasty calorie rich honey”.  Being the bigger, stronger, smarter, and bossier side of his happy family he smacked his faithful mate upside her noggin, pointed to the swarm of bees, and said “I smoke out bees, you climb tree and get honey”.  Gork started a nice smokey fire with some green wood and fresh leaves under the tree and the bees obligingly flew away.   Rubbing the new addition to her bump on the noggin collection, Mawk (his faithful mate) climbed the tree, stuck her arm in the hole, and pulled out, not a nice clear amber ball of oozing honey, but a dirty brown thin film of strange smelling liquid.  “Eww, uck, pagh”, said Mawk looking at the turbid slime covering her arm.  Not liking the lack of speed exhibited by his faithful mate, Gork grabbed a rock and hurled it into the smoke nearly giving Mawk her third noggin bump for the day.  Mawk obediently reached into the cavity with both hands and pulled out some of the nasty looking liquid and dropped it on Gork’s head.  She repeated this exercise until she ran out of liquid to drop.  By the time Mawk had climbed down, the world’s first kegger was underway.

 

As most are aware, Mead was the favorite drink of the Vikings before storming across the peaceful English countryside looking for gold, silver, and prom dates.  Alcohol to release the inhibitions and reduce the pain from arrows, spears, and axe heads entering one’s body and sugar to maintain the high energy level needed to chase down unarmored Anglo-Saxon females who really didn’t want a Viking in the family.  And why did the Vikings do this day after day?  Sugary drinks such as Mead produce a walloping hangover – it was much better to simply get plastered all over again than to face the day with a massive hangover 500 years before aspirin was invented.

 

Depending on your tastes, there are sweet meads with an 8% to 11% alcohol content which are, not surprisingly, sweet and syrupy; and there are dry meads with an alcohol content upwards of 18% which tend to remind one of a lighter and drier white wine.  Both of them pack a punch if you’re used to typical American style beers.

 

The following is information will allow you to produce approximately one gallon of Mead.  Obviously, it is easy to scale it up (got to have some to trade); though scaling it down may require some substantive changes in equipment.  As noted above if you want to add fruits (freeze dried apples and peaches are my favorites), spices (cinnamon works well), and home grown (lucky you) or commercial hops (makes the Mead have a tangy or slightly bitter flavor) go for it.

 

Equipment and Approximate Costs

  • 1 gallon glass jug ($10.00)
  • Stainless Steel or plastic funnel ($7.00)
  • 1 rubber stopper with a hole ($1.00)
  • 1 plastic air lock ($2.00)
  • 1 pack Dry Mead Yeast ($10.00)

 

I buy my stuff from Texas Homebrewers, but any decent home brew company will have everything you need.  The yeast strain is the most important, limiting factor – believe me Champagne yeast, beer yeast, and sake yeast make an awful batch of Mead.  Bread yeast will work in a pinch, but it dies at a much lower alcohol content leaving you with a sweet version of a light beer.

 

If you want to go really cheap, you can use a plastic jug for the fermentation tank and use a balloon instead of an air lock. You will have to “burp” the balloon regularly, so add that in the directions below.

 

Other Stuff You Will Need

  • 1 gallon of clean water – soft spring water or distilled is best, hard water makes really bitter Mead
  • 3 pounds of raw honey (reconstituted granular honey will probably work, though I haven’t tried it)
  • Bleach or some other sanitizer

 

Very Important – Sanitation

 

You are about to create an ideal environment for the growth of thousands of separate species of micro-organisms.  Some of these critters are downright nasty and will give you some really bad side effects (other than the warm fuzzy feeling you are seeking).  Even some of the not so nasty critters will make your Mead unpalatable (though, you might use that for trade if you don’t think the buyer will be a repeat customer).  You really only want one of the beasties to thrive: the yeast.  Hence, you have to make absolutely certain everything is sterile before you start making Mead.  Pour diluted bleach over and in everything – even the outside of the yeast packets and honey containers.  You really, really do not want any contaminants.  Wash your hands often, use clean towels for each step, don’t work in a drafty area, I really can’t emphasize this enough – keep it clean.

 

How to Make Mead

 

  1. Sanitize everything – it bears repeating.
  2. If you use a wet/dry Mead Yeast the pouch will have a small nutrient pack enclosed.  Pop it open and let sit at room temperature (65°F to 85°F) for about 3 hours.  This will allow the Yeast to activate.  If you use a dry Yeast you will need to purchase a separate nutrient mix (or cheat and simple stir it into some raisins soaked in water).  There are a number of different Yeasts, so this step has a lot of variables.  Do a little research on the Yeast you plan to use to make certain you understand how it needs to be started.
  3. Place the honey in a pot of warm water (or on a sunny porch or window sill) to make it easier to pour.
  4. Place the funnel in the glass bottle (or plastic jug for you cheapskates) and pour in one-half gallon of water.  Follow that with the three pounds of honey.
  5. The honey and water won’t mix by magic – it takes some effort.  Put the stopper in the top of the glass jug, cover the hole with your thumb, and shake the hell out of the bottle for 2 or 3 minutes to thoroughly mix the honey and water.
  6. If the honey/water mixture seems warm to the touch let it sit for an hour or so to allow it to reach room temperature.  If it’s too hot it will kill the yeast.
  7. Remove the stopper and pour in the activated yeast and then fill the jug with enough of the remaining water to reach about 1/2 to 1 inch below the top of the bottle.  Don’t overfill the bottle, you need room for the stopper.
  8. Shake the hell out of the bottle again to mix everything together.  You really want to get a good mix, so give this step about 5 minutes of shaking.
  9. Put the air lock into the stopper, fill it to the line with some of the remaining water, and cap it.
  10. Place the bottle in a dark, cool place (a closet works well).  You don’t want the yeast to get too hot or too cold.  Too hot will kill them before they finish turning all that honey into alcohol and too cool will make the fermentation sloooooow waaaaaaay down.
  11. Now comes the hard part.  Go do something else for about 6 months.  Yes, it really takes 6 months for the yeast to turn the honey into Mead.  Check the air lock about once a week, it should start bubbling a bit after a week or so of fermentation.  That’s a good sign (perfect in fact).  It shows the yeast is working to turn the sugar into its two basic components: alcohol and carbon dioxide.  The alcohol stays in the bottle and the carbon dioxide escapes through the air lock.

 

If you are adventurous, you could learn to rack your Mead (transferring it to a clean bottle) every month or so.  An acquired art as you don’t want to aerate the liquid or allow it to get stirred up during the transfer.  This process leaves the dead yeast behind, making the end product clearer and a little less chewy.  You can also use several layers of cheese cloth to strain the finished Mead to remove some of the particles.  Or you could tell Mommy that Yeast is a fine source of several amino acids necessary for the growth of strong muscles and simply drink the Mead as was done in olden times – yeast and all.

 

So, the next time you feel the need to stretch the ropes on your catapult and storm the neighbor’s castle you will now have an appropriate beverage to take with you on your adventures.  Now does anyone know any good Berserker drinking songs?  Cheers!


 

The above post was an entry into the ModernSurvivalOnline Preparedness Guest Post Writing Contest.

First Place winner will receive:

Second Place will receive:

 

Third Place will receive:

 

News you NEED to know…….

 News1

 Another installment of “News You NEED To Know”, via MSO News Correspondent Hunter.

 

 

  • NY State Senator charged with Embezzlement

http://abcnews.go.com/US/wireStory/ny-state-senator-charged-embezzlement-19117638

 

  • Conservative group puts path to citizenship at 6.3 Trillion

http://firstread.nbcnews.com/_news/2013/05/06/18086252-conservative-group-pegs-cost-of-path-to-citizenship-at-63t?lite&ocid=msnhp&pos=5

 

  • Beef hits all time high.

http://www.nbcnews.com/business/bad-news-grill-beef-prices-hit-all-time-high-6C9814441?ocid=msnhp&pos=3#

 

  • Bullet Blitz: Demand from public, government leaves ammo shelves empty

http://www.foxnews.com/us/2013/05/06/bullet-blitz-demand-from-public-government-leaves-ammo-shelves-empty/?test=latestnews

 

  • EU proposes now controlling Seeds

http://www.theblaze.com/stories/2013/05/08/bureaucracy-out-of-control-eu-proposes-limiting-seed-plantings-to-government-approved-list/

 

  • Biden asks clergy to make moral argument on guns

http://www.breitbart.com/Big-Government/2013/05/07/Biden-asks-clergy-to-make-moral-argument-on-guns

 

  • Boston PD says feds never shared warnings about bomber

http://www.foxnews.com/politics/2013/05/09/boston-police-chief-says-feds-never-shared-warnings-about-bomber

 

  • Print aim and shoot, 3-d Guns future.

http://www.scientificamerican.com/article.cfm?id=3d-printing-manufacturing-plastic-gun

 

  • US Marines pack up in Afghanistan as Taliban goes on the offensive

http://worldnews.nbcnews.com/_news/2013/05/12/18152503-us-marines-pack-up-in-afghanistan-as-taliban-wages-spring-offensive?lite&ocid=msnhp&pos=1

 

  • Weather in your area

http://www.weather.com/newscenter/nationalforecast/

 

Guest Post: COMMUNITY FILE #5 Training day!

This is another of my “Community files” that I send out to my retreat group. It and the others I have posted here may be of use to you in planning training for your group. D.

COMMUNITY FILE #5

Training day!

Although all of the construction that needs done is very important, this is more so.

Most if not all of you have no military experience let alone combat experience. If I do not try to pass at least the basics along to you, you will probably get yourself killed. Some things we need to train in ASAP:

1.       Dry firing; snapping in- sight picture-prone, sitting, kneeling and offhand firing positions.
2.       Trigger squeeze.
3.       Reloading:  magazine change, bolt release, clearing jams, etc. using gross motor skills.
4.       Fire and maneuver.
5.       Dis-engagement.
6.       Cover and concealment.
7.       Patrolling; movement, ambush and counter-ambush, flanking.
8.       Guard and perimeter defense.
9.       Transition from primary to secondary weapons.
10.   Mission load-out.
11.   IFAKs and other gear: optics, knives, NVDs.
12.   Recovery of wounded. 

You will need the following for this training:

1.       Any airsoft weapons you may have with magazines, ammo and any optics, etc. that you plan to use on your real weapons.
2.       Your personal weapons with loaded magazines.(For tear down, maintenance and failure to fire drills only)
3.       Your load carrying / plate carriers, with all the gear you plan to use.
4.       Wear clothes appropriate to patrolling during SHTF.

This won’t be fun, but can be with the right attitude. NONE of this training will be live fire! This will be a COLD, COLD range with simulated weapons. Loaded mags are for weight only!!!!

We will try to do this under the radar but some observation will be inevitable. Cover will be IPSC 3 gun combat training. Remember this. Bring your Range Officer caps.

I will do the long gun training and R. will cover handguns (R. you need to put together a training outline) M. will assist. M. and R. have a great deal of experience in civilian combat shooting in 3 gun matches.

ALL involved in this retreat should make a real attempt to participate in this training together for group dynamics and cohesion. We may not be able to repeat it for those who will not attend.

This is important people!!! It may well save your lives during your bug-out. There is safety in numbers and you need to be able to operate effectively in small fire team groups.    Regards, D.

 


 

The above post was an entry into the ModernSurvivalOnline Preparedness Guest Post Writing Contest.

First Place winner will receive:

Second Place will receive:

 

Third Place will receive:

 

Video of the Week: The 1 Yr Plan – Prepping For Life’s SHTF Situations

 

From FullSpectrumSurvival - Thanks Jacob for sending this in…..

 

Have a smile……..

 Thoughts you all might like some of these………

 

383858_427535170618327_1755165947_n

 

funny-dog-pictures-misery-privates

PreparednessZombie

 

 download

 

and lastly………

zombie

Gear Review: Millet Designated Marksman Scope

Gear Review: Millet Designated Marksman Scope

by Jesse James, Editor-at-Large

 

Features:images (1)

  • 18 MOA donut
  • Illuminated reticle
  • 1 MOA dot
  • 1-4x magnification
  • 24mm Objective diameter
  • 30mm tube
  • Waterproof to 3 ft. (tubes are completely waterproof, but not electronics)
  • Fogproof -40F-140F
  • 18 oz.
  • ~$225

 

While it has been quite a while since I have had the privilege to contribute to MSO, rest assured I have been quite busy with rounding out my preps. Much has been going on with my life, including finishing up my last semester of law school and attempting to find a job in the “recovering” economy. No easy task, indeed. One of the major purchases I have made in the last few months has been a 1-4x optic for the dreaded black rifle. I have had several opportunities to test the optic and stretch it, and the rifle, out to its maximum effective range. So here goes.

 

First impression

            The scope is heavier than I initially thought, however it is not noticeably heavy when mounted. I read of problems with the 1st generation having flecks on the inside of the glass, but have read nothing of the 2nd generation having the problem. The one I ordered was in the ATAC finish, and the finish is well done. The turrets are sealed and the elevation turret has a space for an extra battery to be stored in it. The brightest setting is extremely bright and can be seen in broad daylight with both eyes open, enabling the user to run it much like a red dot sight. The 1x setting is true zero magnification, something those with 20/20 vision will appreciate when shooting at close range. The stock scope caps are awful, but functional, and warrant immediate replacement. The power ring is has apparent resistance to turning, however not so much as to be a problem.

 

Installation:images (2)

            To mount the optic I used a Burris P.E.P.R. mount with 1” mount height. The eye relief for the scope warrants mounting it nearly as far forward as possible and the Burris mount does a good job of allowing the trigger puller to tailor the eye relief for his height. The final mounting spot was about ¾ down the picatinny rail, and taller users may need to mount it at the very end of the rail. The design of the mount allows an additional inch of distance past the rail, which may very well be necessary for taller individuals.

 

Zeroing:

            The scope adjustments are ½ MOA at 100 yards, and result in nice, positive engagement every click. The scope windage was dead-on out of the box, which allowed me to use about half the rounds to zero it (very beneficial considering the scarcity of ammo). The elevation was very low, but I suspect it was the height of the mount that effected it the most. I walked the rounds up at 25 yards and took it out to 100 yards a week later. In total it took about 20 rounds to zero and confirm zero from the initial mounting.

 

Real world use:

            As much as I would love to put thousands of rounds down range to truly test the limits of the scope for MSO readers, at $.60/round it is not going to happen. In total about 200 rounds was put through the rifle with the scope mounted. I managed to drop the rifle from the back of a pickup truck while standing in the bed (don’t ask), and the rifle held zero. Before that, I threw the rifle on the ground several times to attempt to knock the scope out of zero. I attribute the robustness of the scope to its extra weight and the quality of the mount. The finish remained intact despite the abuse and speaks to the overall quality of it.

            imagesI shot the DMS at dusk, night and broad daylight at distances between 25-500 yards. Light transmission was more than adequate, and little if any fuzziness was noted even at 500 yards. Undoubtedly the DMS suffers from parallax, however even at 4x, the error is incredibly minuscule  The donut/dot reticule is ideal for a low power scope and makes target acquisition incredibly easy. I found the highest brightness setting unnecessary even in broad daylight and the never went beyond halfway on the brightness setting.

 

Summary:

Having shot through Leupold and Swarovski scopes previously, I expected some very real differences in the lens quality. I have continued to be impressed by the current generation of “low-end” scopes. The light transmission and lens quality of $200 scopes has, in my opinion, significantly increased in the last several years. While higher end scopes will undoubtedly have extra options and marginally better lenses, it is increasingly becoming a decision of diminishing returns. While higher quality scopes shine at higher magnification, I fail to see the need for your average shooter to spend $1000+ on a 1-4x scope. Other options certainly exist among sub-$500 scopes and I encourage you to not be sucked into the brand or dollar hype that is so prevalent among the gear-queer crowd. Most would be better off spending $300-$500 on a scope and taking a tactical carbine class than getting a $1000 scope that they are unable to utilize effectively. I firmly believe this scope will outshoot me at the moment, and I know for a fact that I am far from being a slouch in that area. I am also highly doubtful of my survivability of a situation that would destroy or significantly damage the scope.

I highly recommend this for a beginner scope if you are just getting into 3-gun or this is the initial optic you are putting on your AR. I would not recommend this for a FAL/SCAR or other 7.62mm semi-auto, unless the build is being specifically tailored for short to medium range engagements. The 4x simply does not provide enough magnification to truly utilize the round to its maximum effectiveness.

In closing, Bushnell is now the parent company of Millet scopes. As such, Millet scopes have a lifetime warranty, provided you do not take apart the scope. I suspect this explains much of the rise in quality of Millet scopes the past few years. If you are considering buying a Millet, I would take care to ensure you are getting the most recent generation of the scope, and not an older generation. This is true particularly if you are considering buying one used. If the internet warriors are to be trusted, there is a serious difference between ones built before 2008-2009 and the current generation. The bottom line is the Millet DMS is a solid performer and one of the best scopes for the money. While it does have a few drawbacks, all are minor issues and are far outweighed by the benefits. For the shooter on a limited budget, I highly recommend it.